Makeup for women over 50 is all about the dew. Out with any product that’s prone to caking on the skin, say the pros, and in with skin care—think hydrating face bases and blushes infused with radiance-boosting ingredients. A well-placed bronzer never hurts, either—after all, a sun-kissed glow is winsome at any age.
Below, three celebrity makeup artists share a step-by-step guide to luminizing makeup for women over 50, from primer to makeup, eyebrow shaping, and the final spritz of setting mist.
Skin Care Prep
“I find that the better the skin prep, the less makeup I need to use,” says celebrity makeup artist Lisa Aharon. For women over 50, “my focus is to hydrate, plump, and smooth the skin as much as possible,” she says. “I’ll often start with a sheet mask or serum as it delivers the product more deeply. Then I tend to massage on a heavier cream or oil, or apply a mask that can be left on under makeup to ensure a healthy glow.”
She gravitates toward brightening creams for the eyes. “Just don’t use anything too heavy as the makeup can slip and settle in any fine lines,” she instructs. Aharon is in favor of using the fingers or hands to apply skin care products; a brush will also do the trick.
Next Up, Priming
“The right primer can really help blur fine lines and pores, and extend the life of your makeup,” Aharon says. She recommends brushing on a thin layer of primer after your skin care products have set in. “Let it settle for a minute before applying foundation,” she says.
The Makeup Base
Think thin when it comes to makeup. “The more mature you are, the less heavy your foundation should be,” says Rose-Marie Swift, makeup artist and RMS Beauty founder. “Thick makeup applied onto mature skin only exaggerates the quality of the skin. The thinner the base and more moisturizing it is, the better it will look.”
Tinted moisturizer is a great option for “fresh and easy everyday skin,” Aharon says. “But if you’re looking for coverage or a flawless finish, go with foundation.” For women over 50, she recommends a foundation with medium coverage and a skin-like finish—”one that is long-lasting and won’t settle into fine lines,” she says. “When it comes to concealer, a formula that won’t easily crease or look dry is important.”
A sponge, a brush, or clean fingertips are all perfectly acceptable for application. “I always recommend that people use whatever tool they feel most comfortable with,” Aharon says.
Eyes & Lashes
For women over 50, “I like to really work the lashes,” says Swift. “That includes curling, and my preference is always black mascara. As we get older, the black gives so much more brightness to the eyes. Brown mascara can make the eyes look tired and even slightly yellow. ”
When it comes to eyeshadows, “those with a matte or satin finish look smoothest and most flattering,” Aharon says. “If used up to the crease, a cream shadow can also be very flattering.”
Perfect the Brow
Moving upwards, “I do not like a gray brow,” Swift admits. “ I like to go back to the color of your original eyebrows. The contrast adds brightness and opens and frames the face.” And when it comes to shape, roundness rules.
“Do not square off your eyebrows,” Swift cautions. “All that does is make you look stern and hard. It pulls the eyes together and creates darkness.” Instead, she recommends softening and rounding the shape. “If brows need to be drawn in, use a pencil with a very fine head to mimic brow hairs,” she says. “You can draw in a very realistic brow where hair is missing.”
Add Color & Shimmer
Color comes next, and it provides a significant payoff. “Cream blush is fabulous for mature skin,” says Swift. “It adds hydrating color to make the skin look more youthful.” To apply a cream blush, “I like to tap on the blush with my fingertips and then blend out with a brush or sponge,” Aharon says.
Just be mindful where you tap and blend. “The placement should be more on the apples of cheeks to add that fresh flush,” says Barose. “Avoid putting blush on the side or using it like a contour—that will instantly age you.” Likewise, “do not use bronzers for contouring,” Swift says. “Bronzer should be applied to the areas where the sun kisses the skin.” She recommends applying bronzer horizontally across the forehead, the cheeks, and the bridge of the nose, and using it lightly along the jaw.
As for added glimmer, “anything with shimmer is out” for women over 50, Swift insists. “Shimmer accents skin problems and aging of the skin. However, I do like products with a subtle luminosity as they attract light. That light-reflecting property makes the skin look dewy, moist, and most of all, youthful.”
The Finishing Touch
Powder can also add a pristine final touch, if applied judiciously. “A light powder through the center of the face can leave you with a beautiful finish,” says Aharon. “Just use it sparingly, and skip it altogether if you lean dry.”
Add Extra Hydration
To set the look, “I’m not really a fan of setting spray, especially when you want skin to look fresh and dewy,” says Barose. “I prefer a mist. It gives skin that extra dewy freshness at the end.” Aharon likes to seal a look with a spritz of soothing rosewater.
